The Story Behind Laksa
Laksa is Malaysia's most contested dish. The word itself may derive from the Sanskrit 'lakshas' meaning 'many' โ fitting for a dish that has spawned countless regional variations. Penang Asam Laksa is a tangy, fish-based sour soup crowned with mint and pineapple. Sarawak Laksa is a complex, coconut-curry broth with prawns and shredded chicken. Curry Laksa (Nyonya Laksa) is a rich, spicy coconut curry that's the most popular among visitors.
Each version tells a different story of Malaysia's multicultural heritage. Penang Asam Laksa reflects the island's strong Hokkien and Malay influences. Sarawak Laksa represents the indigenous Bornean take on the dish. Curry Laksa is the Peranakan (Straits Chinese) interpretation โ a fusion of Chinese noodles and Malay spices that could only exist in Malaysia.
What Goes Into Laksa
Rice Noodles
Thick or thin, depending on the regional style
Fish or Prawn Broth
The foundation of the soup โ hours of simmering
Coconut Milk
For curry laksa โ adds richness and creaminess
Tamarind / Assam
For sour laksa โ the tangy backbone of Penang's version
Laksa Leaf
Daun kesum โ the aromatic herb that gives the dish its name
Sambal Belacan
Shrimp paste chili โ served on the side for heat control
The Three Legendary Laksa
Penang Asam Laksa
A sour, fish-based broth with tamarind, no coconut. Topped with mint leaves, pineapple, and shredded cucumber. Listed on CNN's World's 50 Best Foods.
No coconut milk โ sour, tangy, and refreshingSarawak Laksa
A complex curry-coconut broth with over 20 spices. Served with prawns, shredded chicken, and bean sprouts. Anthony Bourdain called it "breakfast of the gods."
The most complex broth โ a spice symphonyCurry Laksa / Nyonya Laksa
Rich, spicy coconut curry broth. The most popular among visitors. Served with tofu puffs, fish cakes, and cockles.
Creamy, spicy, and deeply satisfyingJohor Laksa
Unique spaghetti noodles with coconut gravy and ulam (herbs)
Kelantan Laksa
White, fish-based broth with no coconut โ rare outside Kelantan
Where to Find the Best Laksa
Kim Laksa
Air Itam, PenangPenang Asam Laksa โ listed on CNN's World's 50 Best Foods. The fish broth is sour, complex, and unforgettable. Topped with fresh pineapple and mint.
Arrive before noon โ they sell out by 2pmChong Choon Cafe
Kuching, SarawakThe benchmark for Sarawak Laksa since 1955. Anthony Bourdain's "breakfast of the gods." The broth is a 20-spice masterpiece with prawns and shredded chicken.
Open from 6am โ the early morning bowl is the bestMadam King's Curry Laksa
Kuala LumpurRich, spicy, and deeply satisfying Nyonya-style curry laksa. The coconut broth is thick and fragrant, with generous portions of toppings.
Ask for extra sambal on the sideRestoran Haji Wahid
Johor BahruThe only laksa served with spaghetti โ don't knock it until you've tried it. The coconut gravy is unique to Johor.
An acquired taste, but locals swear by itRestoran Kopi Ping
Kota Bharu, KelantanAuthentic white laksa, rarely found outside Kelantan. The fish broth is clean and herbaceous.
A hidden gem for laksa enthusiastsDid You Know?
- Sarawak Laksa was ranked #1 on Lonely Planet's 'Ultimate Eatlist'
- Penang Asam Laksa appeared on CNN's World's 50 Best Foods list
- The word 'laksa' may come from the Sanskrit 'lakshas' meaning 'many' or 'hundred thousand'
- Each Malaysian state claims to have the 'best' laksa โ the debate is ongoing
- Traditional laksa broth is simmered for 4-6 hours to develop depth